Australia Part 2 – The Climbing

A few weeks have passed since I got back from Australia and now seems like the right time to post a few pictures of the actual climbing we did, first from the Grampians and then of Arapiles.

The two areas complement each other perfectly: Arapiles with it’s many thousands of accessible, high quality routes only minutes walk from the campsite and the Grampians for it’s beauty, wildness and more remote feel. Having these areas close together, particularly in a continent as large as Australia (!), is a real blessing.

Keep an eye out on UKClimbing for Destination Articles for each of these venues over the coming weeks.

Eau Rouge (23) at The Lost World in the Grampians
Eau Rouge (23) at The Lost World in the Grampians
Ben Bransby on the same route, only looking a bit more casual about it...
Ben Bransby on the same route, only looking a bit more casual about it…
Arguably one of the most perfect routes in the world, Archimedes Principle at the Eureka Walls, Southern Grampians (It's a shame about the lack of blue sky)
Arguably one of the most perfect routes in the world, Archimedes Principle at the Eureka Walls, Southern Grampians
(it’s a shame about the lack of blue sky)
Another shot of 'the perfect route', it's hard to get bored of those colours...
Another shot of ‘the perfect route’, it’s hard to get bored of those colours…
Ben Bransby showing us how it's done (again), this time on Fisting Party (26) on Taipan Wall.
Ben Bransby showing us how it’s done (again), this time on Fisting Party (26) on Taipan Wall.
The So Solid (Arms) Crew with Taipan Wall in the background
The So Solid (Arms) Crew with Taipan Wall in the background
When you're taking a shot of one of the most iconic routes in the world, why get the best angle? Here's a bum-shot of Gaz Marshall on Kachoong (21) at Arapiles.
When you’re taking a shot of one of the most iconic routes in the world, why get the best angle (or focus)?!
Here’s a bum-shot of Gaz Marshall on Kachoong (21) at Arapiles.
Ben on Mike Law's classic route Slopin Sleazin (28) on The Pharos, Arapiles.
Ben on Mike Law’s classic route Slopin Sleazin (28) on The Pharos, Arapiles.
Probably not the best day of my life... In the morning I failed to squeeze my way through the chimney of Mr Chicken (upgradable) and in the afternoon I snapped an RP after falling off The Philosopher (24). Oops...
Probably not the best day of my life: in the morning I failed to squeeze my way through the chimney of Mr Chicken (upgradable) and in the afternoon I snapped an RP after falling off The Philosopher (24). Oops…

Australia Part 1- The Animals

I’ve just got back from a month long trip to Australia, climbing at both Mount Arapiles and The Grampians.

In order to buy some time whilst the jet lag wears off, here’s a few pictures of some of the hilarious wildlife – it really was off the scale! Alongside that there’s a few landscape shots of what was, from the small part of it we saw, an absolutely stunning country.

More to follow!

It's a bloody Koala!!
It’s a bloody Koala!!
Stumpy Tailed Lizard
Wide-boy Stumpy Tailed Lizard
Kangaroo
Kangaroo with impossibly small arms
Wallaby
Wallaby with impossibly cool tail
Echidna
Echidna with remarkably pointy noise
Skink
Skink, impressive though this would be in the UK, seems comparatively normal by Aussie standards – try harder next time your evolving Mr Skink…
Noisy Miner Bird
Noisy Miner Bird about to tackle a head-size piece of cheese
The Gum Trees
Gum Trees in the evening light
The Great Ocean Road
The Loch Ord Gorge along the Great Ocean Road, premier choss venue of the future?
The Bay of Islands
The Bay of Islands
Going to see the Platypus
Looking for Platypus at Lake Elizabeth
Mitre Rock at Mount Arapiles
Mitre Rock at Mount Arapiles
Scenes around the campfire
Relaxing by the campfire at The Pines Campground underneath Mount Arapiles

 

The Poor Man’s Yorkshire Triple Crown

High up on the Crucifixion, at about the point I decided to let go several times... Photo: Mark Rankine
High up on the Crucifixion, at about the point I decided to let go several times…
Photo: Mark Rankine

Over the past month I’ve decided to stick with the sport climbing theme.

To begin with, I managed to climb my second 8a – The Crucifixion – at Raven Tor. This 40m stamina test-piece took more sessions than I would have liked (or expected), but was worth every bit of effort. It left me fitter than ever and hatched a bit of an idea in the back of my mind…

One of the benefits of skipping the last two clips is that the fall is arguably one of the finest you could take in the whole of the Peak District
One of the benefits of skipping the last two clips is that the fall is arguably one of the finest you could take in the whole of the Peak District

The Yorkshire Triple Crown consists of the three best 8a+s on the three best crags in Yorkshire (and therefore the world): Urgent Action at Kilnsey, The Groove at Malham and Supercool at Gordale.

Clearly I wasn’t going to do this, at least not this year…

No, an alternative of equal quality could easily be found for a climber operating in the high 7s (i.e. me): Dominatrix at Kilnsey, New Dawn at Malham and Pierrepoint at Gordale. The more observant amongst you will no doubt have noticed that these all feature in the good book too.

Whilst living in Wales these routes had always seemed too far to travel when success seemed so unlikely – I simply wasn’t good enough – and the amount of time it would have required to do them was unjustifiable. Fast forward to present day and things have changed a little. Not only would it be possible to do them, but it should be possible to do them all by the time I leave for Australia on 4th October.

Ambitious, but something inspiring enough to really work towards.

Maddy Cope on the irrepressibly steep Dominatrix at Kilnsey Photo: Katy Whittaker
Maddy Cope on the irrepressibly steep Dominatrix at Kilnsey
Photo: Katy Whittaker

First up came Dominatrix, which I climbed in a single session. Taking so little time on the route meant that I’ve invariably got a bit less to say about it.

This isn’t to say that Dominatrix was uninteresting – it’s one of the best 7cs I’ve done – but more that when you do something quickly there is less of a relationship with the route. I felt exactly the same way when I did the Regular NW Face of Half Dome in a Day, in comparison to spending 5 days on The Shield on El Cap the experience seemed rather rushed/hollow. I suppose I prefer the experiences I have on routes more than the routes themselves.

Toby Dunn on one of the actual Yorkshire Triple Crown Routes - The Groove at Malham Cove
Toby Dunn on one of the actual Yorkshire Triple Crown Routes – The Groove at Malham Cove

Next was New Dawn. This one didn’t go quite so easily, not by a long shot, and as a result I have a rather vivid memory of the route.

Having climbed The Prow, Crucifixion etc.. at Raven Tor my stamina/endurance was at an all time high, but Malham (if you are to attribute thoughts to a crag) doesn’t care about that sort of thing. In fact, I’m not sure Malham cares for much less than absolute perfection of movement. That’s not too much to ask for is it? Kilnsey is so two-dimensional in comparison: pull, pull and pull harder. If the two crags were to be in a relationship then Kilnsey would be the bullish alpha male, but Malham would without doubt be the one really in charge.

Anyhow, one session was spent working the moves.

And there really are so many moves!

So many moves, so little progress. The handholds are alright, but the footholds are – in all honesty – not actually footholds, just blackened smears that when the body is twisted in such a way, between exact parameters (no deviation) will allow you to place your feet upon them. This, in my opinion is different from a  foothold. One step wrong, or decide to breathe mid-sequence, and you’re off. Malham is so mightily unforgiving.

Next session I was on for the red-point. First go I miscalculated one of the 1001 foot swaps at the end of the mid-height traverse, getting muddled, pumped and before long airborne. Second go: a food popped off one of those imaginary footholds. Third go: I had my hands on the ledge at 2/3rds height (yes…the ledge) with no beans left in the bag to surmount it. Fourth go it all seemed a bit unlikely: I was tired from previous effort, but somehow it all went to plan. How and why I do not know…

Such is Malham, such is the relationship you have with a route when projecting, and such is the nature of the final, perfect redpoint – sometimes it can occur at the most unlikely of moments.

Climbing Pierrepoint (7c+) at Gordale Scar, yet another 40m route that I fell of at around 39.5m
Climbing Pierrepoint (7c+) at Gordale Scar, yet another 40m route that I fell of at around 39.5m

Finally, Pierrepoint…

Gordale is a crag with a very unique character: gothic, dark and intimidating. Yet contrary to this moodiness is the fact that it is usually filled with tourists, walkers and danger picnic-ers waiting to catch the occasional mobile hold that comes flying from above. It’s also the only place that you’re likely to get a standing ovation simply for failing to red-point your route.

Pierrepoint suited most of my strengths, yet for some reason took the greatest number of sessions of all the routes in my Poor Man’s Triple Crown.

Was it, as a result, the best?

Maybe, maybe not – they’re all good. What I will say is that those moves up to the first roof are some that I could envisage before going to bed at night, I really enjoyed them. In a strange way I find them quite a comforting mantra. To know something so intimately, what a special thing.

It is unlikely that I’ll be re-engaging in any further projecting before I leave for Australia, but it has been a real pleasure in morphing into a sport climber over the past few months. The routes, the people and the places have all been fantastic.

Let’s do it again sometime…

Grrr...dark...Gordale Scar...oh actually I'm nice...come look at me...I've got two lovely waterfalls...
Grrr…dark…Gordale Scar…oh actually I’m nice…come look at me…I’ve got two lovely waterfalls…

Welcome to the 8th Grade

Welcome to the 8th Grade

1 month / 7 sessions later and it’s done. I have climbed 8a, or more precisely I have climbed The Prow at Raven Tor.

Whilst trying the route I wrote a diary for each session I spent working it, initially I had planned to publish them here on the blog…then I read them and realised they were inconceivably boring… As a result I thought I’d take a slightly different approach and talk a little about the build up to climbing the route and some of the of the small adjustments I made to my lifestyle/routine that made a difference – all in all this seemed like a much more interesting topic!!

To begin with, here’s a little video made by my friend Jack Geldard whilst we were out in Patagonia – it sets the scene quite nicely.

Rob’s Secret Alpine Training Mission… from Jack Geldard on Vimeo.

I’d actually forgotten all about this, but watching it did remind me of how much effort I had put in throughout the winter and the focus I had placed exclusively on rock climbing (as an alternative being an all-rounder inc.  winter/alpine climbing). This focus had made me stronger than ever before, but maybe not much fitter owing to most of the climbing being on gritstone; however, one thing I know is that strength/power – certainly for me – are harder to acquire than fitness/stamina so I was on to a winner. This doesn’t always translate to trad climbing as there’s so much else going on psychologically, but sport climbing it made a real difference and gave me greater reserves that I had ever had, particularly in terms of ‘pull’.

This idea of having greater reserves linked in nicely with a lecture I had attended by Mina (Leslie Wujasyk) at last years Kendal Mountain Festival. Throughout the talk she introduced the concept of ‘Self Efficacy’ and the principles outlined in Lanny Bassham’s book ‘With Winning in Mind’.  One particular concept that I liked the idea of was the ‘positive affirmation statement’, which was a short positive statement that outlined your goals, intentions and inevitably – if you stuck to them, believed in them  – your objective would be achieved. These statements have the habit of sounding a bit cheesy, but I think that it did make a difference to my mindset. I repeated mine to myself so many times that the week before I climbed The Prow I’d even dreamt I’d climbed it! Here’s a copy of mine (try not to vomit):

Positive Affirmation Statement
The Positive Affirmation Statement

Another reason for my success on both The Prow and 8a was that I really wanted to do it. I had tried The Prow a couple of times last year but never really got into it, throughout the evenings Raven Tor gets pretty mobbed with people and the start of The Prow (which is shared with Body Machine) is usually crowded. I knew that in order to climb it I needed to change my approach and rather conveniently the flexibility of my job allowed this. Raven Tor is in best condition throughout the morning, when conditions are cooler and the sun is off the crag; furthermore, it is much, much quieter and therefore allowed me to get stuck into the route without distraction (or guilt that I’m hogging the route). As a result, instead of coming back from every session feeling stressed I came back having really enjoyed myself. Progress also came much quicker as a result of this positive mental attitude and also of the quality of the time I was spending on the route. This really was a revelation to have turned the tables around on an experience I had previously found quite unappealing.

Jon Garside on the start of The Prow
Jon Garside on an early morning/pre-work session at the Tor.

 

Take both the good sessions and the bad sessions in your stride. This session, despite the immense humidity, provided one of my greatest breakthroughs on the route.
Take both the good sessions and the bad sessions in your stride. This session, despite the immense humidity, provided one of my greatest breakthroughs on the route.

Finally, I subscribed to that David Brailesford concept of micro (or marginal) gains. If there was anything I could do, no matter how small/subtle a change, to help me get up that route I was going to do it.  I developed a good morning routine that included a Sun Salutation A+B,  then putting the kettle on and doing a selection of shoulder stretches, thera-band exercises for my elbows and a pigeon stretch to loosen my glutes. I’d usually do this again just before lunchtime, each time repeating my positive affirmation statement to further reinforce the belief that I could do it and was going to do it. Whilst on the route I not only dialled each and every move, but dialled every clip to the extent of knowing which way the quickdraw was facing, how far it was extended and whether or not it was worth skipping on the red-point. I then thought my way through each move from bottom to top every night before I went to sleep and every morning before I got up.

Obsessive behaviour, but ultimately fulfilling because I did it. As a result though, it does get you thinking  “if I can do this, what else can I do?”. Not just in climbing, but in other aspects of both my personal/professional life. It’s an empowering process, but nice to have it all over and done for the time being, it’s probably not overly healthy to be that intense for too long. In fact, the day after I did The Prow I went for a lighthearted boulder around the Derwent skyline – just me, my bouldering mat and a camera. It was a stunning evening. Still climbing, but something so very different from what I had just gone through. Change. It keeps things so fresh…

Onto the next, whatever that is…

(I’m sure it’ll be good).

The stunning Low Coach at the Coach and Horses along the Derwent skyline
The stunning Low Coach at the Coach and Horses along the Derwent skyline

8a

Around a year and a half ago I boarded a flight to Margalef expecting that within the three week duration of my trip I would climb my first 8a. Having already been on a successful trip to Siruana the month before I felt confident of success – it was an inevitability…

Stone the Loach (7c), Chee Dale
Stone the Loach (7c), Chee Dale

In retrospect it was quite obvious that I was simply not good enough to warrant that level of cockiness. The reality of the situation is that 8a is something I would like to have climbed, but when it comes to actually climbing it I fall short on a number of grounds – ironically I don’t feel that ability is one of these factors (I know I can climb 8a!!).

The first reason behind my historic failure is that red pointing is not my preferred style of climbing. I much (much, much, much…) prefer getting the mileage in, doing lots of more moderate routes in lots of difference places – that’s what inspires me. The idea of trying a single route again and again and again is my idea of hell. What usually happens when I begin to work a route is that I try it over a couple of sessions, then either do it or give up and go trad climbing instead. Obviously this approach isn’t going to work if an 8a is to be climbed, because 8a’s are hard.

And that’s the next factor – it is not going to be easy.

Simple.

Face facts: you’re going to have to work for it.

And that’s it I suppose. It’s not just about saying ‘I want to climb 8a’ (which does sound good), it’s about actually going out and trying to climb an actual 8a… I am aware that it is just a number, a puerile tick, but we all need our reasons and I suppose mine is that I know I can do it – I’ve just never been willing to put the effort in.

And there we have it: put the effort in.

I don’t feel there is any more to say reading the matter…

Stone the Loach, a classically 'Greenwood' project worked over two sessions and climbed on the third.
Stone the Loach, a classically ‘Greenwood’ project worked over two sessions and climbed on the third.

Pabbay/Mingulay

Here’s a few photos from last weeks trip to Pabbay/Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides.

Not sure what more I can say other than ‘wow’!

Benno
Benno Wagner lapping up the big holds and even bigger exposure on Ray of Light
Jo Stadden and Katy Whittaker on Prophecy of Drowning
Jo Stadden and Katy Whittaker on Prophecy of Drowning.
A close-up of Jo and Katy, it just shows the scale of the route/cliff - it's huge!
A close-up of Jo and Katy, it just shows the scale of the route/cliff – it’s huge!
Ultimate Frisbee in one of the most incredible settings imaginable
Ultimate Frisbee in one of the most incredible settings imaginable
Ryan Pasquill vs. Will Sim - K.O.
Ryan Pasquill vs. Will Sim – K.O.
PabbayMingulayJune2014_12
This trip has been a long time coming for Benno, after we first talked about it on the 2011 BMC International Meet – great for the moment to have finally come around

Type 1 Fun in Mallorca

Definition of the ‘Types’ of Fun

Type 1: True fun, enjoyable while it’s happening
Type 2: Fun in retrospect
Type 3: Never, ever fun

I’ve just got back from a weeks stay in Mallorca, a week which could very much be categorised by Type 1 Fun.

I usually find this type of fun lacks a bit of depth, leading to it being – ultimately – a little less memorable than it’s more robust Type 2 counterpart. Something about fun in the real-time just doesn’t last as long afterwards.

Duncan Soup
Duncan Campbell experiencing Type 1 fun, nearing the top of Bisexual at Cala Barques

Maybe deep water soloing offers a link between Type 1 and Type 2 fun, being that it is both fun and extremely memorable. In fact, I don’t think I have laughed so much throughout a days climbing in my life – maybe the two are connected? It also has that (necessary?) element of fear, seeing as no matter how brave you are falling from height into Davey Jones’ Locker is intimidating to say the least.

Duncan Soup 1
Duncan experiencing the bittersweet emotion of Type ‘this will be fun in around half an hour’ 2 Fun

So, what’s the conclusion?

Simple: I’d like to do more of it.

Duncan Soup 2
Duncan experiencing Type 3 Fun, the agonising belly flop of a poorly executed landing

 

Let the pictures do the talking

Over the past month and a half I have been away just about every weekend, this coupled with my day-job at UKClimbing and the BMC Alpine Essentials Lectures I’ve been giving throughout the evenings haven’t left me with much time for writing.

They have, however, left me with a lot of photographs so here’s a few highlights – enjoy!

Yellow Pearls at Trevellan, not a slab...
Photo: Tom Ripley

Yellow Pearls (E5 6b) at Trevellan, definitely not a gritstone slab… This was the first pumpy route I’d got on all year and it would suffice to say that my arms wilted under the pressure. My ability to pull upwards was better than ever owing to the winters bouldering, but hanging around to place gear was testing to say the least. A couple of  falls later and I was at the top – what a way to start the year!

Another weekend back in Pembroke we ended up at Mother Carey's where visiting German climbers Benno and Sebastien did Just Klingon.

Another weekend back in Pembroke I ended up at Mother Carey’s with visiting German climbers Benno and Sebastien. They headed straight for the steepest rock they could find and did the classic E5 Just Klingon. As always, great to climb with foreign climbers that are highly motivated for the trad!

After climbing on the Space Face we headed around the corner to the neighbouring – and less frequented – Blind Bay, home of The One Eyed Man (E5 6a). This route ticked just about every box: wild, adventurous, pumpy and committing. The concept of deep water soloing this greatly excites me, but I’m glad I did  it with a rope – wouldn’t want to get too excited after all.

Photo: Benno Wagner
Photo: Benno Wagner

Somehow I had never visited St. Govans East until very recently. With the conditions experienced that weekend it was the perfect venue as it was out the wind and got the morning sun. Whilst many others were climbing in jackets, we were lapping it up in shorts and t-shirts. Here we did Brave New World (E4 6a/pictured above), Imagination (E4 6a), Forbidden Fruits (E3 5c) and First Blood (E2 5c) – all absolute classics.

Duncan Jo Swanage

Due to a last minute change in weather we made the decision to head to Swanage last weekend (and not Pembroke as planned). For those that haven’t been Swanage offers a something a little different, at first everything feels totally out there due to the abundance of loose rock and dusty top-outs, then…well…actually it continues to feel like that, you just get a little more used to it! Here Duncan Campbell wrangles his way up the mind boggling 5a pitch of the ‘benchmark HVS’ – Jo.

SwanageMay2014_58

It was a bit early for testing the deep water – which looked freezing – but doing a spot of deep water soloing without falling was great (although maybe this is just soloing?). Here Mal Scott climbs Freeborn Man (6c), much to the amazement of the onlookers who were clearly hoping to see some airtime.

SwanageMay2014_23

Same route, different pants. Here Howard Lawledge cranks it out in his underwear, Wazza-style…

Tim on Bionics Wall Edit

This week I have been travelling around the UK with British Mountain Guide and North Wales resident Tim Neill. In the picture above he is on the New Mills Tor classic Bionics Wall (E4 6a). I was quite surprised by this little venue, whilst being urban is has a certain charm about it – I’ll definitely be back.

Photo: Tim Neill
Photo: Tim Neill

Finally, my 90th route in Extreme Rock – Deja Vu (E5 6b) at Kilnsey.

Roll on the summer (and no.91)…

Shufflings on the brown rock…

The past few weeks of good weather have taken time away from the usual schedule of blogging.

Rather than go into an exhaustive run-down of what’s been going on, here’s a selection of photos of some recent shuffling around on the brown rock…

Kaluza KleinBack in February I managed to head-point Kaluza Klein (E7 6b). This little route gets a bit of stick due to the fact it is both very short and quite soft for the grade. However, as is typical of so many of Johnny Dawes’s routes it has magnificent line, flamboyant moves and a memorable finish.

IMG_4539Calum Muskett Jumping on a Beetle (Highball 7b), another visionary piece from Johnny. Whilst over at Black Rocks we tried his direct – The Angel’s Share – which is a mind-blowing faith in friction exercise.  I am unsure of how to train this skill other than to do lots of climbing and increase that sensitivity and connection with the rock. As Bruce Lee put it “don’t think – feel”.

Benno Entropy's JawBenno Wagner on Entropy’s Jaw (E5 6b or Highball 6b+/c) at The Roaches. The rock along the Skyline is arguably some of the best that gritstone has to offer. Ed Booth took a fall from the top of this route and, despite the huge distance back to the ground, landed without harm –  such is the way of the modern highball approach. Without it my legs would have been broken long ago…

Andy Houseman at BrimhamWhilst the rock at Brimham may not be up to the standard of the Roaches Skyline, the magical nature of the venue more than makes up for it. Here Andy Houseman laps up the evening light during a quick trip up to Yorkshire.

Psycho CaleyPsycho (E5 6b or Highball 7a) is a route I have wanted to do for a long, long time but always found an excuse not to (i.e. it’s too high, looks too hard and is nearly always green). On this occasion there was no such luck and I did both Psycho and Psycho Direct Start.

Famous Grouse

Until a few weeks ago I had never climbed at Burbage West, odd seeing as it is one of the most accessible crags in the whole of the Peak. There I managed my first 7c, Famous Grouse Sit Start – not bad for someone who considers themselves a weak trad climber!

Charlotte Rampling

Visiting German Benno Wagner doesn’t usually get scared or fall, but on this occasion he did both on Charlotte Rampling (E6 or Highball 7a+) – another of Johnny’s routes!! He took off one item of clothing for each attempt – jumper, t-shirt, then vest. Thank goodness he didn’t fail again or spotting could have been a seriously intimate experience.

China in Your HandsAll of the above outline successes, so here is a quick failure. China in Your Hands (7b+) at Gardoms felt impossible when I went there a few months back, last weekend it felt possible – but unfortunately not possible enough! One to go back for…

A fresh start

So far 2014 has not been a fruitful year for climbing.

In fact, I could positively say that over the past month I cannot remember more than a single day where it has been dry enough to climb.

Duncan Campbell making the most of the evening light during our single day of climbing in January
Duncan Campbell making the most of the evening light during our single day of climbing in January

As a result, the past few weeks have been motivationally challenging to say the least; however, you can’t keep that sort of attitude up for long, much in the same way that it can’t – even though it may seem like it – rain forever, so I have been trying to use my time wisely to get settled into my new job at UKClimbing, learning to use my new camera and reading a few books that have been on the list for a while.

Here are a few photos taken on the aforementioned camera, which is a Canon EOS-M. Historically I have heavily relied on the Automatic mode of every camera I have owned, but with this recent investment I have vowed to use the Manual mode as much as possible in order to learn more about the skill (and art?) of how to take a good photograph. I don’t expect these early results to be record breaking in any way, but  it has been satisfying to put more into the process and, as a result, get more out of it too.

Nathan Lee on Spinal Slab at Robin Hood's Stride
Nathan Lee on Spinal Slab at Robin Hood’s Stride
Nathan Lee on Angle Arete Right at Robin Hood's Stride
Nathan Lee on Angle Arete Right at Robin Hood’s Stride
Robin Hood's Stride
Robin Hood’s Stride

 

Duncan Campbell - A man who's ego has taken a beating since moving to the Peak a few months ago.
Duncan Campbell – A man who’s ego has taken a beating since moving to the Peak a few months ago.

Life on a small island…

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